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2020 CWA Summit

Pre-Conference workshops

Pre-conference workshops are supplemental opportunities for hands-on, in-depth learning from expert faculty. From developing training programs to raising capital for your start-up gym, pre-conference workshops address key topics to help you deepen your skill sets as owners, operators, managers, coaches, and routesetters.

EXPLORE THE 

Click the session title to review details for each pre-conference workshop that will be offered at this year's event.

LEADERSHIP/MANAGEMENT/OPERATIONS

SOLO Wilderness First Aid


Facilitated by: Randy Judycki, Austin Ascents Conference Track: Risk Management Date: Tuesday, May 12 and Wednesday May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $300 for conference attendees, $450 for others Description: WHO IS THE WFA FOR? The WFA is the perfect course for the outdoor enthusiast or trip leader who wants a basic level of first aid training for short trips with family, friends, coaches from gyms who take their team outdoors and outdoor groups. Meets American Camping Association requirements. WHAT IS TAUGHT? The WFA is 16 hours long (two days), and focuses on the basic skills of Response and Assessment, Musculoskeletal Injuries, Environmental Emergencies, Survival Skills, Soft Tissue Injuries, and Medical Emergencies - see the course outline in the sidebar. IS THERE AN EXAM? Yes, there is an ongoing evaluation of practical skills, and there are written assessments throughout the course. DO I GET CERTIFIED? Yes. You will receive a SOLO WFA certification, which is good for two years. DOES THE WFA COUNT AS CONTINUING EDUCATION? The WFA may give continuing ed credits (depending on the specific requirements for your certification and is approved for recertifying SOLO's Wilderness First Responder program. Workshop Goals: · Learn how to assess an injury · How to move an injured person · Assess muscular-skeletal issues · Primary and secondary assessment About the Instructor: Randy was born in Illinois, and soon realized he needed to move to the mountains to climb, ski and whitewater kayak. So, he packed his pack and moved to Arizona where he attended Prescott College received a Bachelor of Science degree in Outdoor Education. The Southwest and West are where he cut his teeth climbing at Granite Mountain, Joshua Tree National Park, Yosemite, and many other places. After graduation, he traveled to Scotland and Europe to climb ice in Scotland and ski in Europe. Once he returned from Europe, he received a job with a school in California where he started a nationally recognized Outdoor Leadership program for sixth to twelfth-grade students. While at the school, he pursued his certification to become an ACA Level 5 Whitewater Kayak instructor and his American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide certification. For many years he would travel to climb in Canada, Peru, Mexico, and throughout the United States. Randy is an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Provider and Climbing Wall Instructor Provider in the state of Texas since 2015, where he certifies individuals to be climbing instructors. He has also pursued his certification to become a SOLO Wilderness First Aid and a Wilderness First Responder instructor; teaching classes to scout leaders, scouts, climbing guides, and all types of outdoor and indoor enthusiasts. What he most enjoys doing is sharing his knowledge of all disciplines of climbing with his clients. In 2013, he moved to Austin with his wife and daughter so his wife could pursue her dream job and he started Austin Ascents. Sign Up Now →





STARTUPS/BUSINESS FORMATION

Prevent Climbing Injuries: A Systematic Approach


Jared Vagy Facilitated by: Jared Vagy, The Climbing Doctor Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $150 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: This workshop is for any climber who has struggled with injury themselves, with their teams or with their gym membership. You will learn how to assess and treat the most common rock climbing injuries. Based on your findings, you will utilize a systematic approach to prevent and rehabilitate the injury. Additionally, you will be given a free copy of the book ""Climb Injury-Free"" and complimentary team membership access to the Rock Rehab Program with detailed injury prevention protocols to treat the most common climbing injuries. Workshop Goals: Learn how to assess the most common rock climbing injuries. Utilize a systematic approach to prevent and rehabilitate the injury. Integrate the latest research into your team practices Use detailed protocols to prevent and treat the most common climbing injuries on your team About the Instructor: Dr. Jared Vagy is a climber and doctor of physical therapy (DPT). He is also a professor at the University of Southern California, the number- one-ranked doctor of physical therapy program in the country. He lectures internationally on the topic of preventing climbing injury. Dr. Jared Vagy has published numerous articles as well as two books on the topic. His most recent book, ""Climb Injury-Free"" is an Amazon #1 best seller in the rock climbing category. As a DPT in clinical practice, he has completed an additional one-year residency program in orthopedics and a one-year fellowship program in movement science, totaling 9 years of concentrated study. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Sign Up Now →




Simple Climbing Testing Procedures and Programming for Teams and Individuals


Steve Bechtel Facilitated by: Steve Bechtel, CLIMB STRONG and Tyler Nelson, Camp4 Performance Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 3:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $325 for conference attendees, $475 for others Description: In this session, Tyler Nelson and Steve Bechtel team up to teach four of the top performance tests for rock climbers and boulderers. Participants will learn about testing procedures, technology, and technique. Additionally, the session will cover what the test numbers might mean, how to improve limiting factors in an athlete's performance, and how to build a training program to pull it all together. |This workshop will feature full participation from the audience, and each person will have the opportunity to take part in the tests if they would like. Workshop Goals: - To highlight the most effective and informative climbing-specific testing modes. - To help coaches understand what the numbers mean and how to improve them. - To bridge the gap between testing and performance by giving coaches a clear framework on how to address test results in training plans. About the Instructors: Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. A climber of 30+ years, Steve's established over 350 new routes across the globe, from grade VI big wall climbs to 25-foot routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of the University of Wyoming, Steve has been studying climbing training methods since his teens. Steve opened Elemental Performance + Fitness in 2002 - a gym in Lander, built around the training needs of high-level climbers. Tyler Nelson operates a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program masters degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. Tyler is employed through two colleges in Utah. He is certified as a CSCS, and spends any extra time in his life with kids, or climbing in Zion National Park. His expertise in human physiology and a cutting-edge knowledge of strength and conditioning techniques will help us understand training for climbing in the 21st century. Sign Up Now →




Coaching Climbing Movement and Mindset


Heather Reynolds Facilitated by: Heather Reynolds Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $175 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: This workshop is designed to assist climbing coaches and program instructors to develop new skills and ideas to share with clients. Attendees will be introduced to a method of progressively teaching movement and understanding how routesetting influences movement style. You will review and practice the value of an eye for movement habits that can negatively impact performance. You will practice activities that will increase the potential movement patterns that will assist in develop new movement patterns and encourage a growth mindset. The exploration of movement will cover areas of setting, injury prevention, risk management and coaching. Participants will be asked to climb and try new things. Level of current climbing is not important, we will work from where you are. Workshop Goals: · Learn new approaches to teaching movement · Practice efficient and inefficient movement patterns · Link strength and mobility to movement patterns · Learn how to trick clients into a growth mindset · Tie movement into activities to force the development of new movement patterns · To bridge the gap between testing and performance by giving coaches a clear framework on how to address test results in training plans. About the Instructor: Heather blends her knowledge of movement, physiology, strength and mobility, and education to develop a multitude of successful climbing programs designed to engage new-to-climbers and experienced climbers of all ages. Coaching hundreds of climbers each year to connect and reconnect with their potential and inspire their climbing, helping them improve their performance. Heather has created and shares simple activities to help climbers develop. www.heatherdr.com Sign Up Now →




Climbing Movement - Case Studies & Teaching Strategies


Facilitated by: Taylor Reed Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 9:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $175 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: Climbing has been called a skill-based sport, but what do we mean by that? Can a skill be mastered? What are the "skills"? Do they go away? How does one skill compensate for another? More importantly, how do we teach it? What kind of analytical "lenses" can you use to make a statement about a climber's movement? What do you need to know to make your time or you're your time with your athlete worthwhile? In this workshop, we'll shift from classroom to the playground as we review science-informed approaches to movement, see how they fit with climbing, and look at case studies of climbers and their technical compensation patterns. We'll also take this information directly to the climbing wall and apply a hands-on approach to analyzing the climbers in the situation and providing teaching direction. Workshop Goals: · Give an overview of research behind two approaches to movement - motor learning and the constraints led approach, and the research behind them. · Synthesize the approaches to climbing both in a classroom setting and apply it practically. · Review case studies of climbing behavior and technique and provide a venue to explore those techniques within the context of one or both movement approaches. About the Instructor: Taylor received his Masters (MA) in international affairs in 2010 and promptly went to Washington, DC to focus on security- and disaster-related policy. He contracted with the Departments of Homeland Security and Health and Human Services to build national- and organizational-level strategies and analyze thousands of policies. Taylor began coaching in 2005 and balanced coaching with his analysis career all the way up until 2018, when he joined the climbing world full time. Sign Up Now →




A Hands-on Approach to Coaching Speed Climbing


Chi Harris Facilitated by: Chi Harris, Multnomah Athletic Club Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 9:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $150 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: Have you ever looked at the Speed Climbing Wall in your gym and wondered what it takes to get to the top? Or maybe you've recently started coaching climbing and are curious about how to prepare athletes for speed climbing competitions. The best way to learn how to coach athletes on the IFSC Speed Route is to spend some time on it yourself. Join Chi Harris in this half-day workshop for a hands-on approach to coaching Speed Climbing. We'll start by talking about the fundamentals that govern how we move on the Speed Wall. Next, we'll put on our shoes and harnesses for a few hours of hands-on learning, where we'll break down the route into manageable pieces and learn some of the most efficient beta for each section. Then, we'll look at the role that video-review can play in helping your clients improve on the Speed Route. Finally, we'll wrap things up by putting together some full-length speed runs and answering any lingering questions. Workshop Goals: · Teach the fundamentals of speed climbing · how to climb the IFSC Speed Route · specific techniques to improve your athletes' times · how to use video-review apps for improved coaching. About the Instructor: Chi Harris is a coach for the Multnomah Athletic Club Climbing Team based out of Portland, Oregon. While maintaining a focus on developing the whole athlete, he has worked with athletes across all three disciplines of climbing-from local competitions all the way up to Youth World Championships-during his 9 years as a coach. Chi volunteers on the USA Climbing coaches committee and has been selected as a member of the Youth US Team Coaching Staff twice. Sign Up Now →




Breath Work Facilitator Basics: Oxygen Load Your Fitness, Coaching, & Yoga Programs


Michael Hooten Facilitated by: Michael Hooten and Gabor Boczonadi Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Saturday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $215 for conference attendees, $350 for others Description: Breath work is an emerging interest in fitness and lifestyle trends ranging from yoga studios to fitness facilities, and now just trickling into climbing programs. Amidst the growing popularity of breath work in health and performance circles, proper facilitation is critical to success when capturing an audience, promoting these adaptable techniques, and making them accessible to participants. Health-conscious lifestyle and culture in a gym expands community offerings and draws investment of routine practice and participation in fitness and climbing programs. Discover how breath facilitation is a simple addition to your mind-body-movement programming that can engage new as well as experienced climbers. The workshop will review various forms of popular breathwork, emerging trends, a brief history, health and performance benefits, and techniques for application. Hands-on experiential facilitation will give participants a chance to observe and participate in facilitated techniques. Workshop and roundtable sharing will provide the opportunity to develop a plan of program implementation. Finally, small group peer facilitation will allow participants the option to practice facilitator technique and debrief/critique takeaways to better understand successful implementation. Workshop Goals: · Introduction to Breath Work: What is it? Trends. Applications. Health & Performance Benefits. · History, Technique Overview, & Philosophical Approach to Instructing & Facilitating · Experiential Education: learn by participating in breath practice · Workshop & Round Table (for programming at your facility) · Small group peer instruction practice (to thoroughly understand program integration) About the Instructors: Michael first started climbing while leading outdoor trips all over the southeastern U.S. in 2009 for a university recreation program. He is a casual climber who loves being in nature and geeks out about safety and technical skills. On his professional journey he has managed a climbing gym, multiple outdoor programs, and facilitated various professional development workshops. With a curious heart, he has annoyed many a person simply by uttering the word, ""why?"" The upside is he loves all questions and will encourage any learner to experience things for themselves in a safe manner to truly understand concepts at hand. With a foundation of basic meditation and breath practice from childhood, Michael became a formal student of various martial arts, yoga, and meditation as a teenager. As he continued to extend the combination of breath and movement into areas such as weightlifting, rowing, backpacking, and climbing, Michael discovered the power and universal application of the thing that keeps us all alive - the breath. Michael is an instructor of breath and movement with 10 years of teaching experience in settings with youth, adults, mental health, physical fitness, and holistic wellness. Michael is a certified qigong breath work instructor, a registered yoga teacher (RYT200), and certified professional life coach. Gabor is an advanced registered yoga teacher (RYT200 & RYT 500) and the founder of breathlete.com. Gabor's been practicing yoga since 2012 and now considers it an all encompassing lifestyle with a strong, dedicated daily practice. He has been teaching yoga around the Denver Area since 2016 working with a wide range of people including athletes, youth, corporate clients, prison population and the general public. He's been part of the UG yoga & fitness team since 2018. His approach to teaching emphasizes the linking of breath with movement and he continuously experiments with different breathing techniques in his own personal practice. As a former professional athlete and coach with 25 years of experience, he has an intimate understanding of movement, body mechanics and the positive effects of breath on health, performance and stress levels. When not teaching yoga or coaching Breath Work, he works as an outdoor educator and Level 2 high ropes course facilitator for the City of Denver guiding youth and adults through various mental and physical challenges in the Rocky Mountain foothills. He lives in west Denver with his rescue pup and wife. Together they enjoy rock climbing, snow sports, mountain biking, and hiking. Sign Up Now →





LEGAL/RISK MANAGEMENT

SOLO Wilderness First Aid


Facilitated by: Randy Judycki, Austin Ascents Conference Track: Risk Management Date: Tuesday, May 12 and Wednesday May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $300 for conference attendees, $450 for others Description: WHO IS THE WFA FOR? The WFA is the perfect course for the outdoor enthusiast or trip leader who wants a basic level of first aid training for short trips with family, friends, coaches from gyms who take their team outdoors and outdoor groups. Meets American Camping Association requirements. WHAT IS TAUGHT? The WFA is 16 hours long (two days), and focuses on the basic skills of Response and Assessment, Musculoskeletal Injuries, Environmental Emergencies, Survival Skills, Soft Tissue Injuries, and Medical Emergencies - see the course outline in the sidebar. IS THERE AN EXAM? Yes, there is an ongoing evaluation of practical skills, and there are written assessments throughout the course. DO I GET CERTIFIED? Yes. You will receive a SOLO WFA certification, which is good for two years. DOES THE WFA COUNT AS CONTINUING EDUCATION? The WFA may give continuing ed credits (depending on the specific requirements for your certification and is approved for recertifying SOLO's Wilderness First Responder program. Workshop Goals: · Learn how to assess an injury · How to move an injured person · Assess muscular-skeletal issues · Primary and secondary assessment About the Instructor: Randy was born in Illinois, and soon realized he needed to move to the mountains to climb, ski and whitewater kayak. So, he packed his pack and moved to Arizona where he attended Prescott College received a Bachelor of Science degree in Outdoor Education. The Southwest and West are where he cut his teeth climbing at Granite Mountain, Joshua Tree National Park, Yosemite, and many other places. After graduation, he traveled to Scotland and Europe to climb ice in Scotland and ski in Europe. Once he returned from Europe, he received a job with a school in California where he started a nationally recognized Outdoor Leadership program for sixth to twelfth-grade students. While at the school, he pursued his certification to become an ACA Level 5 Whitewater Kayak instructor and his American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide certification. For many years he would travel to climb in Canada, Peru, Mexico, and throughout the United States. Randy is an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Provider and Climbing Wall Instructor Provider in the state of Texas since 2015, where he certifies individuals to be climbing instructors. He has also pursued his certification to become a SOLO Wilderness First Aid and a Wilderness First Responder instructor; teaching classes to scout leaders, scouts, climbing guides, and all types of outdoor and indoor enthusiasts. What he most enjoys doing is sharing his knowledge of all disciplines of climbing with his clients. In 2013, he moved to Austin with his wife and daughter so his wife could pursue her dream job and he started Austin Ascents. Sign Up Now →





COACHING/TRAINING

Prevent Climbing Injuries: A Systematic Approach


Jared Vagy Facilitated by: Jared Vagy, The Climbing Doctor Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $150 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: This workshop is for any climber who has struggled with injury themselves, with their teams or with their gym membership. You will learn how to assess and treat the most common rock climbing injuries. Based on your findings, you will utilize a systematic approach to prevent and rehabilitate the injury. Additionally, you will be given a free copy of the book ""Climb Injury-Free"" and complimentary team membership access to the Rock Rehab Program with detailed injury prevention protocols to treat the most common climbing injuries. Workshop Goals: Learn how to assess the most common rock climbing injuries. Utilize a systematic approach to prevent and rehabilitate the injury. Integrate the latest research into your team practices Use detailed protocols to prevent and treat the most common climbing injuries on your team About the Instructor: Dr. Jared Vagy is a climber and doctor of physical therapy (DPT). He is also a professor at the University of Southern California, the number- one-ranked doctor of physical therapy program in the country. He lectures internationally on the topic of preventing climbing injury. Dr. Jared Vagy has published numerous articles as well as two books on the topic. His most recent book, ""Climb Injury-Free"" is an Amazon #1 best seller in the rock climbing category. As a DPT in clinical practice, he has completed an additional one-year residency program in orthopedics and a one-year fellowship program in movement science, totaling 9 years of concentrated study. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Sign Up Now →




Simple Climbing Testing Procedures and Programming for Teams and Individuals


Steve Bechtel Facilitated by: Steve Bechtel, CLIMB STRONG and Tyler Nelson, Camp4 Performance Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 3:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $325 for conference attendees, $475 for others Description: In this session, Tyler Nelson and Steve Bechtel team up to teach four of the top performance tests for rock climbers and boulderers. Participants will learn about testing procedures, technology, and technique. Additionally, the session will cover what the test numbers might mean, how to improve limiting factors in an athlete's performance, and how to build a training program to pull it all together. |This workshop will feature full participation from the audience, and each person will have the opportunity to take part in the tests if they would like. Workshop Goals: - To highlight the most effective and informative climbing-specific testing modes. - To help coaches understand what the numbers mean and how to improve them. - To bridge the gap between testing and performance by giving coaches a clear framework on how to address test results in training plans. About the Instructors: Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. A climber of 30+ years, Steve's established over 350 new routes across the globe, from grade VI big wall climbs to 25-foot routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of the University of Wyoming, Steve has been studying climbing training methods since his teens. Steve opened Elemental Performance + Fitness in 2002 - a gym in Lander, built around the training needs of high-level climbers. Tyler Nelson operates a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program masters degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. Tyler is employed through two colleges in Utah. He is certified as a CSCS, and spends any extra time in his life with kids, or climbing in Zion National Park. His expertise in human physiology and a cutting-edge knowledge of strength and conditioning techniques will help us understand training for climbing in the 21st century. Sign Up Now →




Coaching Climbing Movement and Mindset


Heather Reynolds Facilitated by: Heather Reynolds Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $175 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: This workshop is designed to assist climbing coaches and program instructors to develop new skills and ideas to share with clients. Attendees will be introduced to a method of progressively teaching movement and understanding how routesetting influences movement style. You will review and practice the value of an eye for movement habits that can negatively impact performance. You will practice activities that will increase the potential movement patterns that will assist in develop new movement patterns and encourage a growth mindset. The exploration of movement will cover areas of setting, injury prevention, risk management and coaching. Participants will be asked to climb and try new things. Level of current climbing is not important, we will work from where you are. Workshop Goals: · Learn new approaches to teaching movement · Practice efficient and inefficient movement patterns · Link strength and mobility to movement patterns · Learn how to trick clients into a growth mindset · Tie movement into activities to force the development of new movement patterns · To bridge the gap between testing and performance by giving coaches a clear framework on how to address test results in training plans. About the Instructor: Heather blends her knowledge of movement, physiology, strength and mobility, and education to develop a multitude of successful climbing programs designed to engage new-to-climbers and experienced climbers of all ages. Coaching hundreds of climbers each year to connect and reconnect with their potential and inspire their climbing, helping them improve their performance. Heather has created and shares simple activities to help climbers develop. www.heatherdr.com Sign Up Now →




Climbing Movement - Case Studies & Teaching Strategies


Facilitated by: Taylor Reed Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 9:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $175 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: Climbing has been called a skill-based sport, but what do we mean by that? Can a skill be mastered? What are the "skills"? Do they go away? How does one skill compensate for another? More importantly, how do we teach it? What kind of analytical "lenses" can you use to make a statement about a climber's movement? What do you need to know to make your time or you're your time with your athlete worthwhile? In this workshop, we'll shift from classroom to the playground as we review science-informed approaches to movement, see how they fit with climbing, and look at case studies of climbers and their technical compensation patterns. We'll also take this information directly to the climbing wall and apply a hands-on approach to analyzing the climbers in the situation and providing teaching direction. Workshop Goals: · Give an overview of research behind two approaches to movement - motor learning and the constraints led approach, and the research behind them. · Synthesize the approaches to climbing both in a classroom setting and apply it practically. · Review case studies of climbing behavior and technique and provide a venue to explore those techniques within the context of one or both movement approaches. About the Instructor: Taylor received his Masters (MA) in international affairs in 2010 and promptly went to Washington, DC to focus on security- and disaster-related policy. He contracted with the Departments of Homeland Security and Health and Human Services to build national- and organizational-level strategies and analyze thousands of policies. Taylor began coaching in 2005 and balanced coaching with his analysis career all the way up until 2018, when he joined the climbing world full time. Sign Up Now →




A Hands-on Approach to Coaching Speed Climbing


Chi Harris Facilitated by: Chi Harris, Multnomah Athletic Club Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 9:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $150 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: Have you ever looked at the Speed Climbing Wall in your gym and wondered what it takes to get to the top? Or maybe you've recently started coaching climbing and are curious about how to prepare athletes for speed climbing competitions. The best way to learn how to coach athletes on the IFSC Speed Route is to spend some time on it yourself. Join Chi Harris in this half-day workshop for a hands-on approach to coaching Speed Climbing. We'll start by talking about the fundamentals that govern how we move on the Speed Wall. Next, we'll put on our shoes and harnesses for a few hours of hands-on learning, where we'll break down the route into manageable pieces and learn some of the most efficient beta for each section. Then, we'll look at the role that video-review can play in helping your clients improve on the Speed Route. Finally, we'll wrap things up by putting together some full-length speed runs and answering any lingering questions. Workshop Goals: · Teach the fundamentals of speed climbing · how to climb the IFSC Speed Route · specific techniques to improve your athletes' times · how to use video-review apps for improved coaching. About the Instructor: Chi Harris is a coach for the Multnomah Athletic Club Climbing Team based out of Portland, Oregon. While maintaining a focus on developing the whole athlete, he has worked with athletes across all three disciplines of climbing-from local competitions all the way up to Youth World Championships-during his 9 years as a coach. Chi volunteers on the USA Climbing coaches committee and has been selected as a member of the Youth US Team Coaching Staff twice. Sign Up Now →




Breath Work Facilitator Basics: Oxygen Load Your Fitness, Coaching, & Yoga Programs


Michael Hooten Facilitated by: Michael Hooten and Gabor Boczonadi Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Saturday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $215 for conference attendees, $350 for others Description: Breath work is an emerging interest in fitness and lifestyle trends ranging from yoga studios to fitness facilities, and now just trickling into climbing programs. Amidst the growing popularity of breath work in health and performance circles, proper facilitation is critical to success when capturing an audience, promoting these adaptable techniques, and making them accessible to participants. Health-conscious lifestyle and culture in a gym expands community offerings and draws investment of routine practice and participation in fitness and climbing programs. Discover how breath facilitation is a simple addition to your mind-body-movement programming that can engage new as well as experienced climbers. The workshop will review various forms of popular breathwork, emerging trends, a brief history, health and performance benefits, and techniques for application. Hands-on experiential facilitation will give participants a chance to observe and participate in facilitated techniques. Workshop and roundtable sharing will provide the opportunity to develop a plan of program implementation. Finally, small group peer facilitation will allow participants the option to practice facilitator technique and debrief/critique takeaways to better understand successful implementation. Workshop Goals: · Introduction to Breath Work: What is it? Trends. Applications. Health & Performance Benefits. · History, Technique Overview, & Philosophical Approach to Instructing & Facilitating · Experiential Education: learn by participating in breath practice · Workshop & Round Table (for programming at your facility) · Small group peer instruction practice (to thoroughly understand program integration) About the Instructors: Michael first started climbing while leading outdoor trips all over the southeastern U.S. in 2009 for a university recreation program. He is a casual climber who loves being in nature and geeks out about safety and technical skills. On his professional journey he has managed a climbing gym, multiple outdoor programs, and facilitated various professional development workshops. With a curious heart, he has annoyed many a person simply by uttering the word, ""why?"" The upside is he loves all questions and will encourage any learner to experience things for themselves in a safe manner to truly understand concepts at hand. With a foundation of basic meditation and breath practice from childhood, Michael became a formal student of various martial arts, yoga, and meditation as a teenager. As he continued to extend the combination of breath and movement into areas such as weightlifting, rowing, backpacking, and climbing, Michael discovered the power and universal application of the thing that keeps us all alive - the breath. Michael is an instructor of breath and movement with 10 years of teaching experience in settings with youth, adults, mental health, physical fitness, and holistic wellness. Michael is a certified qigong breath work instructor, a registered yoga teacher (RYT200), and certified professional life coach. Gabor is an advanced registered yoga teacher (RYT200 & RYT 500) and the founder of breathlete.com. Gabor's been practicing yoga since 2012 and now considers it an all encompassing lifestyle with a strong, dedicated daily practice. He has been teaching yoga around the Denver Area since 2016 working with a wide range of people including athletes, youth, corporate clients, prison population and the general public. He's been part of the UG yoga & fitness team since 2018. His approach to teaching emphasizes the linking of breath with movement and he continuously experiments with different breathing techniques in his own personal practice. As a former professional athlete and coach with 25 years of experience, he has an intimate understanding of movement, body mechanics and the positive effects of breath on health, performance and stress levels. When not teaching yoga or coaching Breath Work, he works as an outdoor educator and Level 2 high ropes course facilitator for the City of Denver guiding youth and adults through various mental and physical challenges in the Rocky Mountain foothills. He lives in west Denver with his rescue pup and wife. Together they enjoy rock climbing, snow sports, mountain biking, and hiking. Sign Up Now →





ROUTESETTING

Prevent Climbing Injuries: A Systematic Approach


Jared Vagy Facilitated by: Jared Vagy, The Climbing Doctor Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $150 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: This workshop is for any climber who has struggled with injury themselves, with their teams or with their gym membership. You will learn how to assess and treat the most common rock climbing injuries. Based on your findings, you will utilize a systematic approach to prevent and rehabilitate the injury. Additionally, you will be given a free copy of the book ""Climb Injury-Free"" and complimentary team membership access to the Rock Rehab Program with detailed injury prevention protocols to treat the most common climbing injuries. Workshop Goals: Learn how to assess the most common rock climbing injuries. Utilize a systematic approach to prevent and rehabilitate the injury. Integrate the latest research into your team practices Use detailed protocols to prevent and treat the most common climbing injuries on your team About the Instructor: Dr. Jared Vagy is a climber and doctor of physical therapy (DPT). He is also a professor at the University of Southern California, the number- one-ranked doctor of physical therapy program in the country. He lectures internationally on the topic of preventing climbing injury. Dr. Jared Vagy has published numerous articles as well as two books on the topic. His most recent book, ""Climb Injury-Free"" is an Amazon #1 best seller in the rock climbing category. As a DPT in clinical practice, he has completed an additional one-year residency program in orthopedics and a one-year fellowship program in movement science, totaling 9 years of concentrated study. He is a Board Certified Orthopedic Clinical Specialist and a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Sign Up Now →




Simple Climbing Testing Procedures and Programming for Teams and Individuals


Steve Bechtel Facilitated by: Steve Bechtel, CLIMB STRONG and Tyler Nelson, Camp4 Performance Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 3:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $325 for conference attendees, $475 for others Description: In this session, Tyler Nelson and Steve Bechtel team up to teach four of the top performance tests for rock climbers and boulderers. Participants will learn about testing procedures, technology, and technique. Additionally, the session will cover what the test numbers might mean, how to improve limiting factors in an athlete's performance, and how to build a training program to pull it all together. |This workshop will feature full participation from the audience, and each person will have the opportunity to take part in the tests if they would like. Workshop Goals: - To highlight the most effective and informative climbing-specific testing modes. - To help coaches understand what the numbers mean and how to improve them. - To bridge the gap between testing and performance by giving coaches a clear framework on how to address test results in training plans. About the Instructors: Steve is the founder of Climb Strong. A climber of 30+ years, Steve's established over 350 new routes across the globe, from grade VI big wall climbs to 25-foot routes on his home crags near Lander, Wyoming. An exercise science graduate of the University of Wyoming, Steve has been studying climbing training methods since his teens. Steve opened Elemental Performance + Fitness in 2002 - a gym in Lander, built around the training needs of high-level climbers. Tyler Nelson operates a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength & conditioning business in Salt Lake City. While earning his doctoral degree, he completed a dual program masters degree in exercise science at the University Of Missouri. Tyler is employed through two colleges in Utah. He is certified as a CSCS, and spends any extra time in his life with kids, or climbing in Zion National Park. His expertise in human physiology and a cutting-edge knowledge of strength and conditioning techniques will help us understand training for climbing in the 21st century. Sign Up Now →




Coaching Climbing Movement and Mindset


Heather Reynolds Facilitated by: Heather Reynolds Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 1:00 pm - 5:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $175 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: This workshop is designed to assist climbing coaches and program instructors to develop new skills and ideas to share with clients. Attendees will be introduced to a method of progressively teaching movement and understanding how routesetting influences movement style. You will review and practice the value of an eye for movement habits that can negatively impact performance. You will practice activities that will increase the potential movement patterns that will assist in develop new movement patterns and encourage a growth mindset. The exploration of movement will cover areas of setting, injury prevention, risk management and coaching. Participants will be asked to climb and try new things. Level of current climbing is not important, we will work from where you are. Workshop Goals: · Learn new approaches to teaching movement · Practice efficient and inefficient movement patterns · Link strength and mobility to movement patterns · Learn how to trick clients into a growth mindset · Tie movement into activities to force the development of new movement patterns · To bridge the gap between testing and performance by giving coaches a clear framework on how to address test results in training plans. About the Instructor: Heather blends her knowledge of movement, physiology, strength and mobility, and education to develop a multitude of successful climbing programs designed to engage new-to-climbers and experienced climbers of all ages. Coaching hundreds of climbers each year to connect and reconnect with their potential and inspire their climbing, helping them improve their performance. Heather has created and shares simple activities to help climbers develop. www.heatherdr.com Sign Up Now →




Climbing Movement - Case Studies & Teaching Strategies


Facilitated by: Taylor Reed Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 9:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $175 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: Climbing has been called a skill-based sport, but what do we mean by that? Can a skill be mastered? What are the "skills"? Do they go away? How does one skill compensate for another? More importantly, how do we teach it? What kind of analytical "lenses" can you use to make a statement about a climber's movement? What do you need to know to make your time or you're your time with your athlete worthwhile? In this workshop, we'll shift from classroom to the playground as we review science-informed approaches to movement, see how they fit with climbing, and look at case studies of climbers and their technical compensation patterns. We'll also take this information directly to the climbing wall and apply a hands-on approach to analyzing the climbers in the situation and providing teaching direction. Workshop Goals: · Give an overview of research behind two approaches to movement - motor learning and the constraints led approach, and the research behind them. · Synthesize the approaches to climbing both in a classroom setting and apply it practically. · Review case studies of climbing behavior and technique and provide a venue to explore those techniques within the context of one or both movement approaches. About the Instructor: Taylor received his Masters (MA) in international affairs in 2010 and promptly went to Washington, DC to focus on security- and disaster-related policy. He contracted with the Departments of Homeland Security and Health and Human Services to build national- and organizational-level strategies and analyze thousands of policies. Taylor began coaching in 2005 and balanced coaching with his analysis career all the way up until 2018, when he joined the climbing world full time. Sign Up Now →




A Hands-on Approach to Coaching Speed Climbing


Chi Harris Facilitated by: Chi Harris, Multnomah Athletic Club Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Wednesday, May 13, 2020 Time: 9:00 am - 12:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $150 for conference attendees, $295 for others Description: Have you ever looked at the Speed Climbing Wall in your gym and wondered what it takes to get to the top? Or maybe you've recently started coaching climbing and are curious about how to prepare athletes for speed climbing competitions. The best way to learn how to coach athletes on the IFSC Speed Route is to spend some time on it yourself. Join Chi Harris in this half-day workshop for a hands-on approach to coaching Speed Climbing. We'll start by talking about the fundamentals that govern how we move on the Speed Wall. Next, we'll put on our shoes and harnesses for a few hours of hands-on learning, where we'll break down the route into manageable pieces and learn some of the most efficient beta for each section. Then, we'll look at the role that video-review can play in helping your clients improve on the Speed Route. Finally, we'll wrap things up by putting together some full-length speed runs and answering any lingering questions. Workshop Goals: · Teach the fundamentals of speed climbing · how to climb the IFSC Speed Route · specific techniques to improve your athletes' times · how to use video-review apps for improved coaching. About the Instructor: Chi Harris is a coach for the Multnomah Athletic Club Climbing Team based out of Portland, Oregon. While maintaining a focus on developing the whole athlete, he has worked with athletes across all three disciplines of climbing-from local competitions all the way up to Youth World Championships-during his 9 years as a coach. Chi volunteers on the USA Climbing coaches committee and has been selected as a member of the Youth US Team Coaching Staff twice. Sign Up Now →




Breath Work Facilitator Basics: Oxygen Load Your Fitness, Coaching, & Yoga Programs


Michael Hooten Facilitated by: Michael Hooten and Gabor Boczonadi Conference Track: Coaching/Training Date: Saturday, May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Location: TBD Cost: $215 for conference attendees, $350 for others Description: Breath work is an emerging interest in fitness and lifestyle trends ranging from yoga studios to fitness facilities, and now just trickling into climbing programs. Amidst the growing popularity of breath work in health and performance circles, proper facilitation is critical to success when capturing an audience, promoting these adaptable techniques, and making them accessible to participants. Health-conscious lifestyle and culture in a gym expands community offerings and draws investment of routine practice and participation in fitness and climbing programs. Discover how breath facilitation is a simple addition to your mind-body-movement programming that can engage new as well as experienced climbers. The workshop will review various forms of popular breathwork, emerging trends, a brief history, health and performance benefits, and techniques for application. Hands-on experiential facilitation will give participants a chance to observe and participate in facilitated techniques. Workshop and roundtable sharing will provide the opportunity to develop a plan of program implementation. Finally, small group peer facilitation will allow participants the option to practice facilitator technique and debrief/critique takeaways to better understand successful implementation. Workshop Goals: · Introduction to Breath Work: What is it? Trends. Applications. Health & Performance Benefits. · History, Technique Overview, & Philosophical Approach to Instructing & Facilitating · Experiential Education: learn by participating in breath practice · Workshop & Round Table (for programming at your facility) · Small group peer instruction practice (to thoroughly understand program integration) About the Instructors: Michael first started climbing while leading outdoor trips all over the southeastern U.S. in 2009 for a university recreation program. He is a casual climber who loves being in nature and geeks out about safety and technical skills. On his professional journey he has managed a climbing gym, multiple outdoor programs, and facilitated various professional development workshops. With a curious heart, he has annoyed many a person simply by uttering the word, ""why?"" The upside is he loves all questions and will encourage any learner to experience things for themselves in a safe manner to truly understand concepts at hand. With a foundation of basic meditation and breath practice from childhood, Michael became a formal student of various martial arts, yoga, and meditation as a teenager. As he continued to extend the combination of breath and movement into areas such as weightlifting, rowing, backpacking, and climbing, Michael discovered the power and universal application of the thing that keeps us all alive - the breath. Michael is an instructor of breath and movement with 10 years of teaching experience in settings with youth, adults, mental health, physical fitness, and holistic wellness. Michael is a certified qigong breath work instructor, a registered yoga teacher (RYT200), and certified professional life coach. Gabor is an advanced registered yoga teacher (RYT200 & RYT 500) and the founder of breathlete.com. Gabor's been practicing yoga since 2012 and now considers it an all encompassing lifestyle with a strong, dedicated daily practice. He has been teaching yoga around the Denver Area since 2016 working with a wide range of people including athletes, youth, corporate clients, prison population and the general public. He's been part of the UG yoga & fitness team since 2018. His approach to teaching emphasizes the linking of breath with movement and he continuously experiments with different breathing techniques in his own personal practice. As a former professional athlete and coach with 25 years of experience, he has an intimate understanding of movement, body mechanics and the positive effects of breath on health, performance and stress levels. When not teaching yoga or coaching Breath Work, he works as an outdoor educator and Level 2 high ropes course facilitator for the City of Denver guiding youth and adults through various mental and physical challenges in the Rocky Mountain foothills. He lives in west Denver with his rescue pup and wife. Together they enjoy rock climbing, snow sports, mountain biking, and hiking. Sign Up Now →





PROGRAM MANAGEMENT

SOLO Wilderness First Aid


Facilitated by: Randy Judycki, Austin Ascents Conference Track: Risk Management Date: Tuesday, May 12 and Wednesday May 13, 2020 Time: 8:00 am - 4:00 pm Location: Embassy Suites Conference Center Cost: $300 for conference attendees, $450 for others Description: WHO IS THE WFA FOR? The WFA is the perfect course for the outdoor enthusiast or trip leader who wants a basic level of first aid training for short trips with family, friends, coaches from gyms who take their team outdoors and outdoor groups. Meets American Camping Association requirements. WHAT IS TAUGHT? The WFA is 16 hours long (two days), and focuses on the basic skills of Response and Assessment, Musculoskeletal Injuries, Environmental Emergencies, Survival Skills, Soft Tissue Injuries, and Medical Emergencies - see the course outline in the sidebar. IS THERE AN EXAM? Yes, there is an ongoing evaluation of practical skills, and there are written assessments throughout the course. DO I GET CERTIFIED? Yes. You will receive a SOLO WFA certification, which is good for two years. DOES THE WFA COUNT AS CONTINUING EDUCATION? The WFA may give continuing ed credits (depending on the specific requirements for your certification and is approved for recertifying SOLO's Wilderness First Responder program. Workshop Goals: · Learn how to assess an injury · How to move an injured person · Assess muscular-skeletal issues · Primary and secondary assessment About the Instructor: Randy was born in Illinois, and soon realized he needed to move to the mountains to climb, ski and whitewater kayak. So, he packed his pack and moved to Arizona where he attended Prescott College received a Bachelor of Science degree in Outdoor Education. The Southwest and West are where he cut his teeth climbing at Granite Mountain, Joshua Tree National Park, Yosemite, and many other places. After graduation, he traveled to Scotland and Europe to climb ice in Scotland and ski in Europe. Once he returned from Europe, he received a job with a school in California where he started a nationally recognized Outdoor Leadership program for sixth to twelfth-grade students. While at the school, he pursued his certification to become an ACA Level 5 Whitewater Kayak instructor and his American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock Guide certification. For many years he would travel to climb in Canada, Peru, Mexico, and throughout the United States. Randy is an AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Provider and Climbing Wall Instructor Provider in the state of Texas since 2015, where he certifies individuals to be climbing instructors. He has also pursued his certification to become a SOLO Wilderness First Aid and a Wilderness First Responder instructor; teaching classes to scout leaders, scouts, climbing guides, and all types of outdoor and indoor enthusiasts. What he most enjoys doing is sharing his knowledge of all disciplines of climbing with his clients. In 2013, he moved to Austin with his wife and daughter so his wife could pursue her dream job and he started Austin Ascents. Sign Up Now →





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